Re: TI-H: Turbo calcs, and bad screen connections
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> I'd like to see the 4 speed turbo plans, thanks.
Legal crap:
I don't care if you are a prick and you want to copy this and say you
wrote it, thats fine. Just don't blame me if this (or you) screws up
your calculator. I do encourage you to send me e-mail if you have
problems. THIS WILL MAKE ANY WARRANTY ON YOUR CALCULATOR INVALID
Supplies:
1.........33pf capacitor(available at any radio shack)
1.........22pf capacitor( " )
1.........12pf capacitor( " )
1..........1pf capacitor( " )
1..........4-position dip switch( " )
2..........4-inch lengths of very small wires
1..........a good soldering iron, with a very small tip
1..........some black electrical tape
1..........a steady hand(mine isn't!)
-BUILDING THE DIP-SWITCH CIRCUIT-
Start by making the dip-switch circuit. First solder an end of one of
the wires across four of the prongs on one side of the switch. Now
solder one end the 33pf cap on the prong of switch 1 that is not yet
occupied. Solder the 22pf, 12pf, and 1pf to the prongs of switch 2, 3,
and 4, respectively. Twist the lose ends of the capacitors to one end
of the length of the 2nd length of wire. Solder this joint.
IMPORTANT: The circuit is completed, but you MUST make sure that all
loose wires are covered. Be sure that NONE of the capacitors can touch
each other and leave no bare wires under the switch(the bottom of the
switch will rest on the main board of the calculator). If you do not
keep these wires covered, mayhem will ensue.
If you already have a turbo switch, or you know how to install it, just
discard the old circuit and put the new one in it's place with the two
loose wire ends each soldered to one of the pads on C9. You may have to
bend some of the capacitors/wires to make it fit properly. The easiest
way to fit it in is to secure it to the back cover of the calculator
before reasembling.(you will need a bigger hole on the back cover of the
calculator where the old switch was)
If you have not worked with C9 before, here you go:
Carefully open the calculator by removing the screw for the back up
battery, and the two screws at the bottom of the back cover. Use a
small flathead screwdrive to pry the calculator case open in the bottom
left corner. Slide the corner of the battery cover along the side which
has been pryed partially open. DO THIS VERY CAREFULLY SO THAT THE
CONNECTIONS TO THE LCD ARE NOT DAMAGED. Remove the metal shield from
the main board. Remove the two screws from the display board.
Carefully lift it and slide it up and out of the way.
Now you will see a capacitor labeled C9 in the middle-right of the top
of the main board. It will be between two chips. Desolder C9 from the
board. In it's place you should now solder the two wire-ends left from
the dip-switch circuit. Using a Dremel tool cut a hole in the back
cover of the calculator. Make the cut just above the rightmost battery
where the back-up battery label is. Using some sort of adhesive, attach
the dip-switch to the back cover with a fair amount protruding through
the hole. The only hard part left is to bend the wires from the
dip-switch circuit so that it will comfortably rest on the main board
upon reassembly. The easiest way of doing this is to tuck the
capacitors under the display board once it is reatached. Carefully
reassemble the calculator, making sure none of the new hardware gets in
the way. (you may have to cut a hole in the battery cover as well as the
plastic casing)
THE END!!
Important/unimportant/fun information:
Switch 1 will leave your calculator at 6mHz.
Switch 2 will boost it to 8mHz
Switch 3 will boost it to 10mHz
Switch 4 will boost it to 15mHz
Although the numbers do not show this, each switch will make the
calculator substantually faster than the one before it.
NOTE- Leaving all switches in the OFF position will speed up the
calculator past 15mHz. This is not recommended, however, because it has
not been proven that the processor will remain stable.
Leaving more than one switch on will make the calculator run slower than
the slowest switch that is on.
-Chris Becker
(P.S. I find that games like XC1701 become much more playable on the
second or third switch settings instead of the fourth. This is what
makes the thing so great!!)
(P.P.S. I recommend that you read all of the turbo-calculator schematics
available at http://www.ticalc.org before this proceedure.)
References: